Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts...

July 25th 2018

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particula...

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts...

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (abo...

Casual jackets - ClothJuly 25th 2018

Luxire shirt and trousers: Review

June 27th 2018

*Update October 2018: This shirt unfortunately shrunk considerably after two washes, and the sleeves are now too short to wear, rather supporting my assessment of the selection of materials at Luxire* Luxire is an Indian company based in Bangalore t...

Luxire shirt and trousers: Review

*Update October 2018: This shirt unfortunately shrunk considerably after two washes, and the sleeves are now too short to wear, rather supporting my assessment of the selection of materials at Luxire* Luxire is an India...

Shirts - TrousersJune 27th 2018

Short-sleeved Friday Polos available

June 22nd 2018

A new batch of the short-sleeved version of the Friday Polo came in yesterday - in navy and light grey. They are available on the shop site now, though only 50 in each colour so worth grabbing quickly. It's been hard trying to decide which variation...

Short-sleeved Friday Polos available

A new batch of the short-sleeved version of the Friday Polo came in yesterday - in navy and light grey. They are available on the shop site now, though only 50 in each colour so worth grabbing quickly. It's been hard tr...

ShirtsJune 22nd 2018

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

June 11th 2018

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story in tonal variation...

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top h...

Glasses and jewellery - ShirtsJune 11th 2018

Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong Kong

May 21st 2018

It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me questions about other tailors, and th...

Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong Kong

It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me questio...

Belts and wallets - JacketsMay 21st 2018

The guide to business shirt fabrics

May 16th 2018

[This is part of a series that aims to produce a comprehensive guide to shirt fabrics, from the simplest points to the most technical. So far we have introduced the basics of selecting shirt fabric, and gone into depth on weaves and designs. Here, ...

The guide to business shirt fabrics

  [This is part of a series that aims to produce a comprehensive guide to shirt fabrics, from the simplest points to the most technical. So far we have introduced the basics of selecting shirt fabric, and gone into dept...

ShirtsMay 16th 2018

Introducing: PS Oxford fabric

May 9th 2018

I’ve always found that an oxford shirt fills a very specific gap in my wardrobe. Smart enough for almost any sports jacket - from cashmere to corduroy - it is also the perfect partner for jeans. It might bridge formal and casual perhaps better...

Introducing: PS Oxford fabric

I’ve always found that an oxford shirt fills a very specific gap in my wardrobe. Smart enough for almost any sports jacket - from cashmere to corduroy - it is also the perfect partner for jeans. It might bridge formal...

ShirtsMay 9th 2018

Point collars – at Budd

May 7th 2018

My shirt collars over the years have generally been one of two styles: spread or button-down. Both can work with or without a tie (and have been tweaked consistently to make that easier) but I generally prefer the spread with a tie, the button-down ...

Point collars – at Budd

My shirt collars over the years have generally been one of two styles: spread or button-down. Both can work with or without a tie (and have been tweaked consistently to make that easier) but I generally prefer the sprea...

ShirtsMay 7th 2018

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

May 2nd 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to see...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from dis...

Bags - Casual jacketsMay 2nd 2018

Friday Polos back in stock – with new Olive

April 26th 2018

The much-loved Friday Polos, which I design and produce with shirtmaker Luca Avitabile in Naples, are back in stock . Thank you to everyone that has been waiting so patiently. As per usual, we have produced them in four colours. However, as I know t...

Friday Polos back in stock – with new Olive

The much-loved Friday Polos, which I design and produce with shirtmaker Luca Avitabile in Naples, are back in stock . Thank you to everyone that has been waiting so patiently. As per usual, we have produced them in four...

ShirtsApril 26th 2018

100 Hands shirts: Made in Amritsar, India

April 23rd 2018

100 Hands makes perhaps the finest shirts in the world. They certainly have as much handwork as any shirt I've seen, executed with greater fineness and consistency. But the most significant thing for many people will be that they are made in India. ...

100 Hands shirts: Made in Amritsar, India

100 Hands makes perhaps the finest shirts in the world. They certainly have as much handwork as any shirt I've seen, executed with greater fineness and consistency. But the most significant thing for many people will be...

ShirtsApril 23rd 2018

Holiday snaps: Eidos, Aspesi, Doek, Drake’s

April 20th 2018

Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit the 100 Hands factory in Amritsa...

Holiday snaps: Eidos, Aspesi, Doek, Drake’s

Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit th...

Glasses and jewellery - ShirtsApril 20th 2018

The guide to shirting weaves and designs

April 11th 2018

In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part of the process that largely define...

The guide to shirting weaves and designs

  In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part o...

ShirtsApril 11th 2018

Unexpected texture and colour – Denim and linen

March 19th 2018

I think it’s telling that the thing that makes me happiest about this outfit is the oatmeal-linen shirt, a piece made bespoke by D’Avino. I’ve been doing this for a while - trying to combine pieces of classic menswear in ways that ...

Unexpected texture and colour – Denim and linen

I think it’s telling that the thing that makes me happiest about this outfit is the oatmeal-linen shirt, a piece made bespoke by D’Avino. I’ve been doing this for a while - trying to combine pieces of classic mens...

Jackets - ShirtsMarch 19th 2018

Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you wear?

February 28th 2018

Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their roots in particular parts of th...

Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you wear?

Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their r...

Casual jackets - DenimFebruary 28th 2018

How to pick shirt fabric

February 19th 2018

This is the first in an occasional series on shirtings, following a similar model to our Guide to Cloth on tailoring fabrics. As with that, we start with the basics here and will then burrow ever deeper in the coming months… Picking cloth f...

How to pick shirt fabric

This is the first in an occasional series on shirtings, following a similar model to our Guide to Cloth on tailoring fabrics. As with that, we start with the basics here and will then burrow ever deeper in the coming mo...

ShirtsFebruary 19th 2018

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The debate

January 18th 2018

Below you can find the full video of our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence. It's a little basic, but thankfully the sound worked well and it's audible throughout. Silvio Albini makes a lovely introduction at the start, then each shirtmaker introduce...

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The debate

Below you can find the full video of our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence. It's a little basic, but thankfully the sound worked well and it's audible throughout. Silvio Albini makes a lovely introduction at the start,...

ShirtsJanuary 18th 2018

Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium

January 17th 2018

[The votes and nominations for the Permanent Style awards closed today, by the way. Thank you for all your comments and emails. The winners will be announced next week.] At the Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence last week we had a display of five shi...

Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium

[The votes and nominations for the Permanent Style awards closed today, by the way. Thank you for all your comments and emails. The winners will be announced next week.] At the Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence last wee...

ShirtsJanuary 17th 2018

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers

January 15th 2018

Left to right: Simon Crompton, Justin Chang, Jack Sepetjian, Darren Tiernan, Silvio Albini, Luca Avitabile, Paolo Maffeis. The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great discussion. We decided this time ...

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers

Left to right: Simon Crompton, Justin Chang, Jack Sepetjian, Darren Tiernan, Silvio Albini, Luca Avitabile, Paolo Maffeis. The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great dis...

ShirtsJanuary 15th 2018

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

December 21st 2017

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; suede suggests a more dressy look...

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; su...

Casual jackets - DenimDecember 21st 2017

Shibumi ties, Burgos shirts and tebas – in th...

December 15th 2017

I’ve noticed in the past year that a lot of my favourite ties are from Shibumi. They’re always on the end of the rail; they always get picked up first. Yet I haven’t written about them for quite a while. Having Benedikt (below) in ...

Shibumi ties, Burgos shirts and tebas – in th...

I’ve noticed in the past year that a lot of my favourite ties are from Shibumi. They’re always on the end of the rail; they always get picked up first. Yet I haven’t written about them for quite a while. Having Be...

Shirts - TiesDecember 15th 2017

Edward Sexton ready-to-wear: Hollywood-top trousers...

December 8th 2017

It’s been so fun swapping in brands every week or two during the pop-up shop. A lot of work, but fun: it feels like a different place, a slightly different atmosphere, every weekend. On Wednesday this week we exchanged The Armoury for Drop93 -...

Edward Sexton ready-to-wear: Hollywood-top trousers...

It’s been so fun swapping in brands every week or two during the pop-up shop. A lot of work, but fun: it feels like a different place, a slightly different atmosphere, every weekend. On Wednesday this week we exchange...

Knitwear - ShirtsDecember 8th 2017

High/low dressing

December 6th 2017

The biggest potential pitfall with tailored dressing is looking fussy. Fussy is not sexy; it is not attractive. It is closely related to appearing ‘affected’ or ‘mannered’. Looking relaxed in clothing, on the other hand, is v...

High/low dressing

The biggest potential pitfall with tailored dressing is looking fussy. Fussy is not sexy; it is not attractive. It is closely related to appearing ‘affected’ or ‘mannered’. Looking relaxed in clothing, on the ot...

Hanks and scarves - HatsDecember 6th 2017

Shirtmakers and details announced for the Symposium

December 4th 2017

I'm pleased to say we have all the details confirmed for our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence this January. Please do RSVP to [email protected] if you would like to attend. We expect it to be quite packed. The location is Palazzo Gondi, i...

Shirtmakers and details announced for the Symposium

I'm pleased to say we have all the details confirmed for our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence this January.  Please do RSVP to [email protected] if you would like to attend. We expect it to be quite packed.  ...

ShirtsDecember 4th 2017

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 10...

December 1st 2017

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active. Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include some Permanent Style favourites...

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 10...

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active.  Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include ...

Casual jackets - Hanks and scarvesDecember 1st 2017