The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

Read MoreMar 10th 2021

This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider - also encompassing some semi-bespoke and some remo...

The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider - also encompassing some semi-bespoke and some remo...

Mar 10th 2021

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (or, the ideal artisanal journey)

Read MoreMar 18th 2019

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is, in effect,...

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (or, the ideal artisanal journey)

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is, in effect,...

Mar 18th 2019

Gaziano & Girling bespoke Adelaides

Read MoreMar 10th 2014

Tan shoes make such a lovely complement to grey flannel, don't they? And we know why the socks are green.  But of course the most beautiful thing here is the lines of the shoe. The tight waist that causes the sole to virtually disappear in the mi...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke Adelaides

Tan shoes make such a lovely complement to grey flannel, don't they? And we know why the socks are green.  But of course the most beautiful thing here is the lines of the shoe. The tight waist that causes the sole to virtually disappear in the mi...

Mar 10th 2014

Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki Shirahama

Read MoreNov 28th 2016

There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the house, is in charge, and there i...

Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki Shirahama

There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the house, is in charge, and there i...

Nov 28th 2016

Gaziano & Girling: The benefits of both sides

Read MoreFeb 11th 2010

While up in Northampton last week, I stopped in to see Gaziano & Girling’s new workshop. And Tony was kind enough to show me round. There aren’t many shoe makers in England that combine a bespoke and ready-made business in the way that G&G now do...

Gaziano & Girling: The benefits of both sides

While up in Northampton last week, I stopped in to see Gaziano & Girling’s new workshop. And Tony was kind enough to show me round. There aren’t many shoe makers in England that combine a bespoke and ready-made business in the way that G&G now do...

Feb 11th 2010

How to wear a black necktie - reader question

Read MoreFeb 11th 2015

 Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/grey suit. Any other combination...

How to wear a black necktie - reader question

 Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/grey suit. Any other combination...

Result only found in commentsFeb 11th 2015

Colour, size and drama: How to dress like André Larnyoh

Read MoreAug 18th 2021

André Larnyoh has enviably easy style.  It’s tempting to put this down to his work as an actor, but that would be too simplistic. That training certainly creates “natural physical awareness”, as he puts it, but there’s also fascination w...

Colour, size and drama: How to dress like André Larnyoh

André Larnyoh has enviably easy style.  It’s tempting to put this down to his work as an actor, but that would be too simplistic. That training certainly creates “natural physical awareness”, as he puts it, but there’s also fascination w...

Result only found in commentsAug 18th 2021

If you only had five bags: A capsule collection

Read MoreSep 8th 2021

Five bags might seem like a lot - certainly compared to shirts or ties, as featured previously in this series.  But given you’ll need some kind of suitcase, plus a day bag, and probably a backpack for cycling, walking or sports, five isn’t th...

If you only had five bags: A capsule collection

Five bags might seem like a lot - certainly compared to shirts or ties, as featured previously in this series.  But given you’ll need some kind of suitcase, plus a day bag, and probably a backpack for cycling, walking or sports, five isn’t th...

Result only found in commentsSep 8th 2021

If you had five coats: A versatile selection

Read MoreDec 1st 2021

As with our previous article in this series - on bags - five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth and for rain.  And given t...

If you had five coats: A versatile selection

As with our previous article in this series - on bags - five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth and for rain.  And given t...

Result only found in commentsDec 1st 2021

Justin Fitzpatrick, the Shoe Snob, launches his shoes

Read MoreApr 10th 2013

A couple of weeks ago, Justin Fitzpatrick at The Shoe Snob launched his first range of shoes, which are now available at Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row. For Justin, this is the culmination of a long period of working and dreaming. He trained as a shoe...

Justin Fitzpatrick, the Shoe Snob, launches his shoes

A couple of weeks ago, Justin Fitzpatrick at The Shoe Snob launched his first range of shoes, which are now available at Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row. For Justin, this is the culmination of a long period of working and dreaming. He trained as a shoe...

Apr 10th 2013

Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots

Read MoreDec 17th 2014

 As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name.I was interested in Tim’s bespoke offering primarily for the cost. At...

Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots

 As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name.I was interested in Tim’s bespoke offering primarily for the cost. At...

Dec 17th 2014

Gaziano & Girling shop: An opening party for locals

Read MoreApr 28th 2014

When was the last time there was a shop opening on Savile Row to get excited about? One making to the same standard as the great tailors already there? Exactly. Reason enough to shout about the new Gaziano & Girling shop, which had an informal o...

Gaziano & Girling shop: An opening party for locals

When was the last time there was a shop opening on Savile Row to get excited about? One making to the same standard as the great tailors already there? Exactly. Reason enough to shout about the new Gaziano & Girling shop, which had an informal o...

Apr 28th 2014

The Permanent Style trunk show

Read MoreOct 14th 2016

Thank you.Thank you so much on my behalf, and more importantly on behalf of the four artisans - who trusted me, and by extension you, to come over to London and do something they'd never done before, in a location they'd never seen before. Because ...

The Permanent Style trunk show

Thank you.Thank you so much on my behalf, and more importantly on behalf of the four artisans - who trusted me, and by extension you, to come over to London and do something they'd never done before, in a location they'd never seen before. Because ...

Oct 14th 2016

Michael Norman dry cleaning (previously Press2Dress)

Read MoreSep 1st 2017

*Michael now has a basic website with contact details at www.mnbespoke.com* There are precious few dry cleaners out there that understand bespoke tailoring. They are likely to clean suits in bulk, with everything going into the vat together and no a...

Michael Norman dry cleaning (previously Press2Dress)

*Michael now has a basic website with contact details at www.mnbespoke.com* There are precious few dry cleaners out there that understand bespoke tailoring. They are likely to clean suits in bulk, with everything going into the vat together and no a...

Sep 1st 2017

The Shirtmakers Symposium - The speakers

Read MoreJan 15th 2018

The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great discussion. We decided this time to have everyone seated, and it made a real difference I think. There was far more focus on the talk, and less chatting....

The Shirtmakers Symposium - The speakers

The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great discussion. We decided this time to have everyone seated, and it made a real difference I think. There was far more focus on the talk, and less chatting....

Jan 15th 2018

The jackets I picked for winter

Read MoreOct 20th 2021

A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather.  I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...

The jackets I picked for winter

A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather.  I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...

Oct 20th 2021

The best things from the pop-up: Bryceland’s, Colhay’s, and on to Scott and Masaru 

Read MoreOct 29th 2021

This was so lovely. The opportunity to see readers in person for the first time in two years, and such great products to show them.  Before the party kicked off, I made sure to try on all of the Bryceland’s products I hadn’t seen or tried  befo...

The best things from the pop-up: Bryceland’s, Colhay’s, and on to Scott and Masaru 

This was so lovely. The opportunity to see readers in person for the first time in two years, and such great products to show them.  Before the party kicked off, I made sure to try on all of the Bryceland’s products I hadn’t seen or tried  befo...

Oct 29th 2021

The new Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat

Read MoreNov 26th 2021

*Note: The brown of this jacket is perhaps a little browner and lighter than the pictures suggest. A picture of the skin itself has been added at the bottom of this piece to demonstrate. Thanks* During the recent pop-up shop on Savile Row, the most a...

The new Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat

*Note: The brown of this jacket is perhaps a little browner and lighter than the pictures suggest. A picture of the skin itself has been added at the bottom of this piece to demonstrate. Thanks* During the recent pop-up shop on Savile Row, the most a...

Nov 26th 2021

Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?

Read MoreFeb 25th 2022

Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades.  I was interested to know what the appeal was.?...

Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?

Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades.  I was interested to know what the appeal was.?...

Feb 25th 2022

The rules and how to break them #11: Always button your jacket

Read MoreApr 29th 2022

A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned.  I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow this rule ...

The rules and how to break them #11: Always button your jacket

A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned.  I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow this rule ...

Apr 29th 2022

The divergent styles of Cleverley and Gaziano & Girling

Read MoreOct 28th 2013

Having tried so many tailors and shoemakers, I am often asked to compare them. With bespoke shoes, the most common question is which maker achieved the best fit. However, the fit often doesn’t vary that much, and most importantly (perhaps depressin...

The divergent styles of Cleverley and Gaziano & Girling

Having tried so many tailors and shoemakers, I am often asked to compare them. With bespoke shoes, the most common question is which maker achieved the best fit. However, the fit often doesn’t vary that much, and most importantly (perhaps depressin...

Oct 28th 2013

Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a jacket

Read MoreMar 27th 2024

Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested in...

Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a jacket

Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested in...

Mar 27th 2024

Summer casual chic: Riviera style Part 2

Read MoreJul 12th 2023

I really enjoyed Tony’s evocative piece last week on Riviera style. The image of the rose-coloured hotel with palm trees cooling its flushed façade, in particular, has stayed with me I also thought there was more to explore. Given how challenging ...

Summer casual chic: Riviera style Part 2

I really enjoyed Tony’s evocative piece last week on Riviera style. The image of the rose-coloured hotel with palm trees cooling its flushed façade, in particular, has stayed with me I also thought there was more to explore. Given how challenging ...

Jul 12th 2023

Introducing: The navy Donegal Coat

Read MoreSep 28th 2022

The cut and contours of this, the PS Donegal Coat, will be familiar to most readers. So I’ll focus on the colour to begin with.  This is our navy iteration, and it is primarily a large, 3x3 herringbone weave that alternates between navy and black....

Introducing: The navy Donegal Coat

The cut and contours of this, the PS Donegal Coat, will be familiar to most readers. So I’ll focus on the colour to begin with.  This is our navy iteration, and it is primarily a large, 3x3 herringbone weave that alternates between navy and black....

Sep 28th 2022

Eight outfits I liked at Pitti - and why

Read MoreJan 19th 2024

Pitti Uomo this year felt busier than last, but that was a little deceptive - two of the big buildings were still closed for lack of exhibitors, and more squeezed into the main pavilion. The show’s future still feels a little uncertain.  My time w...

Eight outfits I liked at Pitti - and why

Pitti Uomo this year felt busier than last, but that was a little deceptive - two of the big buildings were still closed for lack of exhibitors, and more squeezed into the main pavilion. The show’s future still feels a little uncertain.  My time w...

Jan 19th 2024