The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known
This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider - also encompassing some semi-bespoke and some remo...
The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known
This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider - also encompassing some semi-bespoke and some remo...
Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (or, the ideal artisanal journey)
Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is, in effect,...
Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (or, the ideal artisanal journey)
Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is, in effect,...
Gaziano & Girling bespoke Adelaides
Tan shoes make such a lovely complement to grey flannel, don't they? And we know why the socks are green. But of course the most beautiful thing here is the lines of the shoe. The tight waist that causes the sole to virtually disappear in the mi...
Gaziano & Girling bespoke Adelaides
Tan shoes make such a lovely complement to grey flannel, don't they? And we know why the socks are green. But of course the most beautiful thing here is the lines of the shoe. The tight waist that causes the sole to virtually disappear in the mi...
Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki Shirahama
There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the house, is in charge, and there i...
Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki Shirahama
There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the house, is in charge, and there i...
Gaziano & Girling: The benefits of both sides
While up in Northampton last week, I stopped in to see Gaziano & Girling’s new workshop. And Tony was kind enough to show me round. There aren’t many shoe makers in England that combine a bespoke and ready-made business in the way that G&G now do...
Gaziano & Girling: The benefits of both sides
While up in Northampton last week, I stopped in to see Gaziano & Girling’s new workshop. And Tony was kind enough to show me round. There aren’t many shoe makers in England that combine a bespoke and ready-made business in the way that G&G now do...
How to wear a black necktie - reader question
Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/grey suit. Any other combination...
How to wear a black necktie - reader question
Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/grey suit. Any other combination...
Colour, size and drama: How to dress like André Larnyoh
André Larnyoh has enviably easy style. It’s tempting to put this down to his work as an actor, but that would be too simplistic. That training certainly creates “natural physical awareness”, as he puts it, but there’s also fascination w...
Colour, size and drama: How to dress like André Larnyoh
André Larnyoh has enviably easy style. It’s tempting to put this down to his work as an actor, but that would be too simplistic. That training certainly creates “natural physical awareness”, as he puts it, but there’s also fascination w...
If you only had five bags: A capsule collection
Five bags might seem like a lot - certainly compared to shirts or ties, as featured previously in this series. But given you’ll need some kind of suitcase, plus a day bag, and probably a backpack for cycling, walking or sports, five isn’t th...
If you only had five bags: A capsule collection
Five bags might seem like a lot - certainly compared to shirts or ties, as featured previously in this series. But given you’ll need some kind of suitcase, plus a day bag, and probably a backpack for cycling, walking or sports, five isn’t th...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
As with our previous article in this series - on bags - five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth and for rain. And given t...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
As with our previous article in this series - on bags - five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth and for rain. And given t...
Justin Fitzpatrick, the Shoe Snob, launches his shoes
A couple of weeks ago, Justin Fitzpatrick at The Shoe Snob launched his first range of shoes, which are now available at Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row. For Justin, this is the culmination of a long period of working and dreaming. He trained as a shoe...
Justin Fitzpatrick, the Shoe Snob, launches his shoes
A couple of weeks ago, Justin Fitzpatrick at The Shoe Snob launched his first range of shoes, which are now available at Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row. For Justin, this is the culmination of a long period of working and dreaming. He trained as a shoe...
Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots
As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name.I was interested in Tim’s bespoke offering primarily for the cost. At...
Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots
As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name.I was interested in Tim’s bespoke offering primarily for the cost. At...
Gaziano & Girling shop: An opening party for locals
When was the last time there was a shop opening on Savile Row to get excited about? One making to the same standard as the great tailors already there? Exactly. Reason enough to shout about the new Gaziano & Girling shop, which had an informal o...
Gaziano & Girling shop: An opening party for locals
When was the last time there was a shop opening on Savile Row to get excited about? One making to the same standard as the great tailors already there? Exactly. Reason enough to shout about the new Gaziano & Girling shop, which had an informal o...
The Permanent Style trunk show
Thank you.Thank you so much on my behalf, and more importantly on behalf of the four artisans - who trusted me, and by extension you, to come over to London and do something they'd never done before, in a location they'd never seen before. Because ...
The Permanent Style trunk show
Thank you.Thank you so much on my behalf, and more importantly on behalf of the four artisans - who trusted me, and by extension you, to come over to London and do something they'd never done before, in a location they'd never seen before. Because ...
Michael Norman dry cleaning (previously Press2Dress)
*Michael now has a basic website with contact details at www.mnbespoke.com* There are precious few dry cleaners out there that understand bespoke tailoring. They are likely to clean suits in bulk, with everything going into the vat together and no a...
Michael Norman dry cleaning (previously Press2Dress)
*Michael now has a basic website with contact details at www.mnbespoke.com* There are precious few dry cleaners out there that understand bespoke tailoring. They are likely to clean suits in bulk, with everything going into the vat together and no a...
The Shirtmakers Symposium - The speakers
The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great discussion. We decided this time to have everyone seated, and it made a real difference I think. There was far more focus on the talk, and less chatting....
The Shirtmakers Symposium - The speakers
The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great discussion. We decided this time to have everyone seated, and it made a real difference I think. There was far more focus on the talk, and less chatting....
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The best things from the pop-up: Bryceland’s, Colhay’s, and on to Scott and Masaru
This was so lovely. The opportunity to see readers in person for the first time in two years, and such great products to show them. Before the party kicked off, I made sure to try on all of the Bryceland’s products I hadn’t seen or tried befo...
The best things from the pop-up: Bryceland’s, Colhay’s, and on to Scott and Masaru
This was so lovely. The opportunity to see readers in person for the first time in two years, and such great products to show them. Before the party kicked off, I made sure to try on all of the Bryceland’s products I hadn’t seen or tried befo...
The new Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat
*Note: The brown of this jacket is perhaps a little browner and lighter than the pictures suggest. A picture of the skin itself has been added at the bottom of this piece to demonstrate. Thanks* During the recent pop-up shop on Savile Row, the most a...
The new Permanent Style x Cromford shearling coat
*Note: The brown of this jacket is perhaps a little browner and lighter than the pictures suggest. A picture of the skin itself has been added at the bottom of this piece to demonstrate. Thanks* During the recent pop-up shop on Savile Row, the most a...
Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?
Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades. I was interested to know what the appeal was.?...
Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?
Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades. I was interested to know what the appeal was.?...
The rules and how to break them #11: Always button your jacket
A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned. I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow this rule ...
The rules and how to break them #11: Always button your jacket
A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned. I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow this rule ...
The divergent styles of Cleverley and Gaziano & Girling
Having tried so many tailors and shoemakers, I am often asked to compare them. With bespoke shoes, the most common question is which maker achieved the best fit. However, the fit often doesn’t vary that much, and most importantly (perhaps depressin...
The divergent styles of Cleverley and Gaziano & Girling
Having tried so many tailors and shoemakers, I am often asked to compare them. With bespoke shoes, the most common question is which maker achieved the best fit. However, the fit often doesn’t vary that much, and most importantly (perhaps depressin...
Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a jacket
Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested in...
Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a jacket
Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested in...
Summer casual chic: Riviera style Part 2
I really enjoyed Tony’s evocative piece last week on Riviera style. The image of the rose-coloured hotel with palm trees cooling its flushed façade, in particular, has stayed with me I also thought there was more to explore. Given how challenging ...
Summer casual chic: Riviera style Part 2
I really enjoyed Tony’s evocative piece last week on Riviera style. The image of the rose-coloured hotel with palm trees cooling its flushed façade, in particular, has stayed with me I also thought there was more to explore. Given how challenging ...
Introducing: The navy Donegal Coat
The cut and contours of this, the PS Donegal Coat, will be familiar to most readers. So I’ll focus on the colour to begin with. This is our navy iteration, and it is primarily a large, 3x3 herringbone weave that alternates between navy and black....
Introducing: The navy Donegal Coat
The cut and contours of this, the PS Donegal Coat, will be familiar to most readers. So I’ll focus on the colour to begin with. This is our navy iteration, and it is primarily a large, 3x3 herringbone weave that alternates between navy and black....
Eight outfits I liked at Pitti - and why
Pitti Uomo this year felt busier than last, but that was a little deceptive - two of the big buildings were still closed for lack of exhibitors, and more squeezed into the main pavilion. The show’s future still feels a little uncertain. My time w...
Eight outfits I liked at Pitti - and why
Pitti Uomo this year felt busier than last, but that was a little deceptive - two of the big buildings were still closed for lack of exhibitors, and more squeezed into the main pavilion. The show’s future still feels a little uncertain. My time w...