How sartorial principles can apply to casual clothing

Read MoreDec 19th 2016

This outfit, which was shot for the recent cover story of Plaza Uomo magazine, is probably one of the most casual ever featured on Permanent Style. Much like the first image of our popular ‘Which office are you?’ post, it is the informal end of a...

How sartorial principles can apply to casual clothing

This outfit, which was shot for the recent cover story of Plaza Uomo magazine, is probably one of the most casual ever featured on Permanent Style. Much like the first image of our popular ‘Which office are you?’ post, it is the informal end of a...

Dec 19th 2016

Wearing warm and cold colours

Read MoreApr 4th 2018

Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things contribute to this formality:Most obviously, formal items of clothing such as a suit, tie, or handkerch...

Wearing warm and cold colours

Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things contribute to this formality:Most obviously, formal items of clothing such as a suit, tie, or handkerch...

Apr 4th 2018

Gaziano & Girling introduces my loafer - 'The Crompton'

Read MoreJan 8th 2018

The hatch-grain loafers I commissioned with Gaziano & Girling back in 2012 have consistently been among my favourite shoes - both for me and for readers. The mid-brown colour is tremendously versatile (everything from cream to mid-grey trousers...

Gaziano & Girling introduces my loafer - 'The Crompton'

The hatch-grain loafers I commissioned with Gaziano & Girling back in 2012 have consistently been among my favourite shoes - both for me and for readers. The mid-brown colour is tremendously versatile (everything from cream to mid-grey trousers...

Jan 8th 2018

How to layer knitwear

Read MoreJan 4th 2019

Layering knitwear can be both stylish and practical. Practical, because it gives particular warmth on a cold day - more, usually, than a shirt under knitwear. The multiple layers are also easy to add and remove as the temperature varies. And stylish,...

How to layer knitwear

Layering knitwear can be both stylish and practical. Practical, because it gives particular warmth on a cold day - more, usually, than a shirt under knitwear. The multiple layers are also easy to add and remove as the temperature varies. And stylish,...

Jan 4th 2019

My family

Read MoreMar 29th 2021

I am a 39-year-old father of three wonderful daughters. My family is without question the most joyful and important thing in my life.  Why is this relevant to Permanent Style? Two reasons.  First, this demographic is not well-represented in the ima...

My family

I am a 39-year-old father of three wonderful daughters. My family is without question the most joyful and important thing in my life.  Why is this relevant to Permanent Style? Two reasons.  First, this demographic is not well-represented in the ima...

Mar 29th 2021

If you only had five business suits: A capsule collection

Read MoreApr 29th 2019

These 'Building a Wardrobe' pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its own page here.  When you first sta...

If you only had five business suits: A capsule collection

These 'Building a Wardrobe' pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its own page here.  When you first sta...

Apr 29th 2019

If you only had five jackets: A capsule collection

Read MoreSep 21st 2020

This latest article in our Wardrobe Building series is on sports jackets, odd jackets, or just jackets. Whatever you want to call them.  It’s an area with little understanding. I loved the exchange in The Times that a reader highlighted recentl...

If you only had five jackets: A capsule collection

This latest article in our Wardrobe Building series is on sports jackets, odd jackets, or just jackets. Whatever you want to call them.  It’s an area with little understanding. I loved the exchange in The Times that a reader highlighted recentl...

Sep 21st 2020

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

Read MoreAug 10th 2018

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke.    It will continue to be added to over the next...

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke.    It will continue to be added to over the next...

Aug 10th 2018

If you only had five shoes: A capsule collection

Read MoreSep 6th 2019

This series of posts on building a core wardrobe has proved incredibly popular - and now has its own dedicated Guide page here.  I’m sure it’s useful to guys that are just starting out, trying to decide whether to get that versatile pair of b...

If you only had five shoes: A capsule collection

This series of posts on building a core wardrobe has proved incredibly popular - and now has its own dedicated Guide page here.  I’m sure it’s useful to guys that are just starting out, trying to decide whether to get that versatile pair of b...

Sep 6th 2019

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

Read MoreFeb 15th 2017

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to...

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to...

Feb 15th 2017

If you only had five ties - a capsule collection

Read MoreOct 26th 2015

   Readers often ask for 'capsule collections' of types of clothes - shoes, suits, ties etc. There are many reasons such a list is useful. It can point to the 'essentials': those things that provide the foundation of a wardrobe. It can suggest in...

If you only had five ties - a capsule collection

   Readers often ask for 'capsule collections' of types of clothes - shoes, suits, ties etc. There are many reasons such a list is useful. It can point to the 'essentials': those things that provide the foundation of a wardrobe. It can suggest in...

Oct 26th 2015

If you only had five handkerchiefs - a capsule collection

Read MoreJan 7th 2016

   A capsule collection has many uses. When you travel for long periods, for example, you want a small but versatile collection of clothes that has a large number of permutations, and suits different occasions. And if you commute by bike (as I d...

If you only had five handkerchiefs - a capsule collection

   A capsule collection has many uses. When you travel for long periods, for example, you want a small but versatile collection of clothes that has a large number of permutations, and suits different occasions. And if you commute by bike (as I d...

Jan 7th 2016

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

Read MoreMay 31st 2017

If the suit has a future as a day-to-day item of clothing, it will surely be in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. Those, you would have to think, will be reserved for more formal wear. Suits and jackets, meanwhile, ...

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

If the suit has a future as a day-to-day item of clothing, it will surely be in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. Those, you would have to think, will be reserved for more formal wear. Suits and jackets, meanwhile, ...

May 31st 2017

If you only had five (smart) trousers

Read MoreMar 28th 2022

Of all the articles I’ve written in our Wardrobe Building series, this might be the hardest. Even if we’re just looking at smart trousers, the pairs that suit somebody will vary hugely with lifestyle and with taste. A pair of whipcords is prob...

If you only had five (smart) trousers

Of all the articles I’ve written in our Wardrobe Building series, this might be the hardest. Even if we’re just looking at smart trousers, the pairs that suit somebody will vary hugely with lifestyle and with taste. A pair of whipcords is prob...

Mar 28th 2022

The guide to summer trouser cloths

Read MoreMay 10th 2017

The key functional aspect of trouser cloth is the body that enables it to drape well and hold its shape. It should throw a nice, clean line down the leg, hold its crease, and recover from wrinkling when hung at the end of the day. Unfortunately, th...

The guide to summer trouser cloths

The key functional aspect of trouser cloth is the body that enables it to drape well and hold its shape. It should throw a nice, clean line down the leg, hold its crease, and recover from wrinkling when hung at the end of the day. Unfortunately, th...

May 10th 2017

Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket - from Steven Hitchcock

Read MoreOct 8th 2018

Charcoal is a surprisingly useful colour in an odd jacket. Great with muted tones of tan, green or brown, it's also dark enough to go with lighter grey flannels. And charcoal is my favourite colour to wear with cream trousers. It tends to tone down...

Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket - from Steven Hitchcock

Charcoal is a surprisingly useful colour in an odd jacket. Great with muted tones of tan, green or brown, it's also dark enough to go with lighter grey flannels. And charcoal is my favourite colour to wear with cream trousers. It tends to tone down...

Oct 8th 2018

Panic, spite and satisfaction: My job now

Read MoreAug 21st 2019

The memory that comes back vividly is cycling over to the Drake’s office, on a Boris Bike. I was going to see Matt and Nathan for some reason, and then going for a drink afterwards. I had a moment of sheer panic. Riding along, I started freaking ou...

Panic, spite and satisfaction: My job now

The memory that comes back vividly is cycling over to the Drake’s office, on a Boris Bike. I was going to see Matt and Nathan for some reason, and then going for a drink afterwards. I had a moment of sheer panic. Riding along, I started freaking ou...

Aug 21st 2019

The logical waistcoat theory (part one)

Read MoreJan 18th 2008

Men need a new uniform to adapt to air conditioning. Here’s a suggestion.Let’s start with history and practicality. Suit jackets were never meant to be taken off. A man, no matter what his place in society, strained to have a clean collar and cuf...

The logical waistcoat theory (part one)

Men need a new uniform to adapt to air conditioning. Here’s a suggestion.Let’s start with history and practicality. Suit jackets were never meant to be taken off. A man, no matter what his place in society, strained to have a clean collar and cuf...

Jan 18th 2008

Introducing: Escorial Tweed

Read MoreAug 28th 2019

Today, the question I get more than any other is: what cloth should I use for a sports jacket?  Selecting cloth for a jacket is not easy, at least once you’ve gone beyond the navy blazer. Compared to a navy or grey suit, there's a dizzying range o...

Introducing: Escorial Tweed

Today, the question I get more than any other is: what cloth should I use for a sports jacket?  Selecting cloth for a jacket is not easy, at least once you’ve gone beyond the navy blazer. Compared to a navy or grey suit, there's a dizzying range o...

Aug 28th 2019

Seven levels of formality

Read MoreMay 4th 2017

Understanding formality is a cornerstone of dressing well.  Only when you understand that flannel is more casual than worsted, and a derby more casual than an oxford, can you begin to understand the impression clothes create - and how to put appropr...

Seven levels of formality

Understanding formality is a cornerstone of dressing well.  Only when you understand that flannel is more casual than worsted, and a derby more casual than an oxford, can you begin to understand the impression clothes create - and how to put appropr...

May 4th 2017

The Guide to Flannel

Read MoreDec 18th 2017

A couple of years ago, a friend asked me for advice on dressing down his normal suit-and-tie wardrobe. Like many men, he wore suits (in worsted wool) to the office, and jeans or chinos at the weekend. The office was becoming more casual, however, a...

The Guide to Flannel

A couple of years ago, a friend asked me for advice on dressing down his normal suit-and-tie wardrobe. Like many men, he wore suits (in worsted wool) to the office, and jeans or chinos at the weekend. The office was becoming more casual, however, a...

Dec 18th 2017

Am I effeminate? Am I vain? Reader questions on style and its context

Read MoreDec 13th 2017

It’s taken a while to get to these remaining questions from our ‘You are the interviewer’ post (thanks again for those - some great questions in there). Hopefully I’ll be able to get through them all over the Christmas break. Today, we’...

Am I effeminate? Am I vain? Reader questions on style and its context

It’s taken a while to get to these remaining questions from our ‘You are the interviewer’ post (thanks again for those - some great questions in there). Hopefully I’ll be able to get through them all over the Christmas break. Today, we’...

Dec 13th 2017

If you only had five shirts: A capsule collection

Read MoreAug 31st 2018

Readers have asked for a while for this post: something recommending a core, versatile shirt collection. The idea of suggesting such ‘capsule’ collections is that they help a newcomer build a wardrobe, prioritising the things that will give them...

If you only had five shirts: A capsule collection

Readers have asked for a while for this post: something recommending a core, versatile shirt collection. The idea of suggesting such ‘capsule’ collections is that they help a newcomer build a wardrobe, prioritising the things that will give them...

Aug 31st 2018

A story in suits: My history with Anderson & Sheppard

Read MoreApr 27th 2022

I had my first suit made at Anderson & Sheppard 12 years ago, in 2010.  As I begin a series looking at the making of a new A&S jacket, I thought it would be interesting, even fun, to look back at that first suit and the ones that followed it...

A story in suits: My history with Anderson & Sheppard

I had my first suit made at Anderson & Sheppard 12 years ago, in 2010.  As I begin a series looking at the making of a new A&S jacket, I thought it would be interesting, even fun, to look back at that first suit and the ones that followed it...

Apr 27th 2022

Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage

Read MoreApr 20th 2020

Last month I wrote a fairly comprehensive piece on the ways to deal with rain damage on shoes, when it happens.  In this article, I’ll outline the best ways to prevent that damage happening in the first place - both in terms of which shoes you wea...

Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage

Last month I wrote a fairly comprehensive piece on the ways to deal with rain damage on shoes, when it happens.  In this article, I’ll outline the best ways to prevent that damage happening in the first place - both in terms of which shoes you wea...

Apr 20th 2020